Uri Buri

Written by on March 15, 2012 in I Eat Haifa, I Eat...Out with 0 Comments

(uriburi.co.il) – Akka Old City, Israel

How I heard of this place: This long-established water-view restaurant has been around as long as I can remember trips to Akko in the past decade-and-then-some. I have always been curious, but never thought to venture in until my sister, Mojan recommended ithighly in my last two visits. We decided to wait until Chris could also enjoy the food, and decided that our Akko day of Pilgrimage and service in the House of Abbud (right around the corner) was that perfect day.

Type of cuisine: Legendary restaurateur Uri Buri takes his diners on an in-depth journey into the world of fish and seafood at this sea-side restaurant. His culinary worldview brings seafood – grilling, roasting, curing, pickling, smoking, frying, stewing, steaming, baking and more – to his abundant and constantly full establishment. Through an abundance of recipes Uri combines different cooking traditions with a spectrum of tastes, preparation methods and local ingredients found along the shores of the Mediterranean.

Ambiance: The seaside establishment is easily missed as you walk past cars lining the front of the patio area, the small, unkempt plexiglass sign in orange font reading only two words (in English and in Hebrew): URI BURI. The stonefront building is only one story, hosts three, large arched windows with green frames and has definitely seen better days. But make your way indoors to a beautiful, old, rustic retreat with high ceilings, arched stone walls and tiled floors. The mini bar behind the register first welcomes patrons, nearly unnoticed as one is easily distracted by the bright cave into which she has entered. Entering the exposed stone doorway into the dining area to the right, we see more exposed stone under the depleted sheets of cream-colored paint. Only one painting, unframed sits askew on the wall, of a large meadowed landscape. The pale yellow tiled floors are interspersed with beautiful, colorful mosaics creating the warm feel of a Persian rug underfoot. The handful of small tables are each accompanied by an even smaller table, where the waitstaff can store additional eating-ware, or place the ample dishes one is tempted to order after perusing the menu.

What I ordered: Unable to make any decisions as everything presented a reason to return day after day to this same spot, I remembered at the last moment that we could order half-portions! The four dishes shared between the two of us included: Barramundi (55 NIS), a white fish served with spinach, pecorino and feta cheese sauce; Cod Fish (58 NIS) in a butter, sage and lemon sauce, served over a creamy cauliflower puree; Salmon (55 NIS) lightly smoked served over a spinach martini sauce and creamed puree; and the Gorgonzola Shrimps (58 NIS) served in a small, bubbling cast-iron skillet in a rich cream sauce with asparagus and gorgonzola cheeses. A freshly squeezed red grapefruit juice (12 NIS) accompanied the cutting board with a loaf of seemingly fresh-baked rustic bread and whipped butter topped with coarse sea salt. The Barramundi, presented atop a green puree of spinach, topped with shaved pecorino and a roasted cherry tomato, was served with a separate small plate of buttery lentils and rice, reminding me so much of my own mom’saddas polo. The salmon, beautifully displayed on the large, white, ceramic plate with small piles of coral-colored sea salt at the rim, came served alongside a shallow bowl of baked, cheesey, mashed potatoes. Our cast-iron skillet of creamy goodness came third, sizzling, boiling, served over a well-blackened and seasoned bread board. (The entire loaf of bread seemed small, now, with the ample cheesey sauce we had for dipping!) The cod made its way out, swimming in a small pool of butter, over a drumstick-shaped smear of cauliflower puree topped with a lone, roasted cherry tomato.

What I loved: I think both Chris and I agreed that the salmon was best prepared, juicy and tender, flaky and smooth, simple and…perfect. The spinach and feta sauce, amazing. The lentils, a burst of buttery, melt-in-your-mouth enjoyment. The potatoes, creamy, smooth and very easy to swallow.

Why I loved it: Our dessert was the opportunity to meet Uri Buri, himsel, as he came to our table to greet us, welcome us and chat before agreeing to take a picture with the two of us. The space is casual in its rustic elegance, the food spectacular, and the peace accomplished through culinary expertise and seamless presentation of our artistic dishes.

Cost: High (40-110 NIS per entree; including half and full portions)

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